Does wine travel well? Things to consider when purchasing a foreign drop.

2009 Domaine Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté,  Burgundy  France ($32 per bottle)  

They say Guinness beer doesn't travel well and that a pint in Ireland tastes better than anywhere else in the world - purists say once it's travelled across the River Liffey that runs down the centre of Dublin it's travelled too far! Can the same be said for wine?  Have you every had a bottle of wine overseas and then tried it again at home only to be disappointed?  Did it taste better because you were in 'the moment' - what wine wouldn't taste great sitting in a cafe in France with loved ones! - or does the process of shipping wine cause it to change?  Australia is a long distance away from some of the 'old world' wine regions - so it's something worth thinking about next time you splurge on a special bottle or two.

In my view wines do seem fresher at their origin, especially when you're not tasting these wines every vintage. A wine can take some time to recover from bottle shock (or sickness) due to transport from overseas, making it seem unbalanced or disjointed in its early life.  For a new vintage this could last only a couple of  days or weeks while for much older, more fragile bottles this can cause irreversible damage.  If a red wine has sediment then stand the bottle upright for a couple of days to let everything settle downwards.  As well as time spent in transport, exposure to heat and light can also be an issue.  Heat and light speed up the ageing process of a wine's life, and a 'cooked' wine brings unpleasant odours and flavours, making it undrinkable.  


As a general rule you're better off buying an overseas wine from a reputable distributor when you get home rather than trying to ship it home yourself or via a general courier company.  The same can be said about purchasing wines online from overseas - make sure the courier company they use are diligent about what they're doing!  

The 2009 Bourgogne Aligoté from Domaine Goisot is a white wine that tasted different (but delicious) on its home turf compared to back here in Australia.  When I visited the cellars in France this June it tasted rich but fresh with green melon characters (honeydew) on the palate and aromatic herbal notes with some intense exotic notes.  Last week I tried it again back in Australia and although I thought it showed a similar freshness, the palate to me seemed slightly riper with some more nectarine notes and a slight creamy edge. The acidity and backbone were still firm (a trademark) with a fresh finish to keep everything in balance.

Domaine Goisot is a fully-biodynamic producer located in Saint-Bris which is the biggest village in Burgundy, located in greater Chablis. Father and son team, Jean-Hughes and Guilhem Goisot are the current wine-making team, but the family has been there since 1596! The incredible cave underneath the winery was built between the 11th and 12th century.  Aligoté is a variety that has been around since the 11th century and the vines at Goisot are are between 30 and 90 years old.

Domaine Goisot is an exciting producer to follow closely and if your a fan of a textural white that tastes great back here in the Antipodes - this Aligoté is for you!


2009 Domaine Goisot Bourgogne Aligoté,  Burgundy  France ($32 per bottle)  

Tasting Notes: aromas of nectarine and lemon pith, almost pinot gris-like with exotic spices. This is  followed by a mouthfilling palate with stony, earthy characters and a waxy but nervy, lively finish.

Would Go Well With : barramundi with ginger and shallots, whole-roasted chicken with mixed bean salad and potato mash, gruyere cheese with quince paste.

Tell Your Guests:  Domaine Goisot also makes a white wine from a grape called 'Fié Gris' -  which is an ancient cousin of sauvignon blanc.  It is one of the very few wineries who still use this variety.  

Cellaring Potential:  3-5 years.

To buy: To purchase a bottle or two visit International Fine Wines of Europe.   Click here to buy.

Grower Producer Champagnes

NV Agrapart 'Blanc de Blancs' Grand Cru Champagne from Avize,  France


In 2011 it looks as though it will be an early vintage in the Champagne region, in fact across most of Europe...about 3-4 weeks ahead of normal vintage time. Yields are also down on 2009 but quality is high.


On June 5th I visited Pascal Agrapart in the village of Avize, France and tried some seriously impressive champagnes. The vineyards are managed bio-dynamically and fruit is picked on ripeness - in the burgundian way. If you haven't had the chance to try Grower Producer champagnes – small production, small parcels of fruit and a hands-on approach - then it's time to begin. There’s just an extra ‘wow-factor’ from good Grower Producer Champagnes, wines that speak of their origin..  And at an attractive price-point. 


Tried several champagnes matched with Comte cheese, local lentils and charcuterie.  If you like a dry, crisp champagne, the stand-out for me was the NV Agrapart 'Terroirs' Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru for it's freshness, its spiny and stoney characters and its sourdough notes.


Shipments into Australia have just arrived, and this champagne is ready to drink now or cellar for 3-5 years. The price per bottle is around $85.


To buy NV Agrapart 'terroirs' blanc de blancs Grand Cru online, click here.