Toothfish & Burgundy - Two Ways

ARIA Sydney’s roasted Toothfish with octopus, grilled leeks & tomato butter sauce. With 2012 Macon-Fuissé ‘Le Haut Fuissé’ Domaine Vessigaud, Burgundy France (Chardonnay)

ARIA Sydney Toothfish Main Course

Ben Turner’s latest Toothfish main dish at ARIA Sydney requires a complex wine that has fresh acidity. So we have decided to serve the same wine 2 ways for this dish – one bottle being 3-4 degrees (very chilled) served in a riesling glass, the other bottle served at cellar temperature (16 degrees) in a larger burgundy glass.  For me the bigger burgundy glass sings the louder tune, with firmer flavours and textures so is more suited to the mouthfeel of the Toothfish whilst in the crisper format the more chilled Macon has fresher citrus notes and high-toned acidity, making it more suitable with the accompanying flavours of smoked eggplant, octopus, leek and tomato.

Background on the ARIA Sydney dish:

Toothfish is a deep water fish which is harvested from Antarctica. It is caught in the sub-atlantic waters between Western Australia and Argentina.  It is rich and buttery with a large flake and in this case it is roasted with the skin off. The fish lies on a spoon of smoked eggplant caviar, green shallots are lightly char-grilled.  The octopus is sourced from Fremantle in Western Australia and is cooked in a water bath at 85 degrees celsius for 3 hours. The octopus is then warmed in a pickling liquid. The dish is garnished with ice plant, a tomato and octopus ink sauce – a sauce blended with fresh cherry tomato, tomato paste, sherry vinegar, butter and then finished with the ink. 

Tell your friends:

• Toothfish flesh is high in oil due to cold waters and a rich diet of squid, crustaceans and fish. 
• Macon-Fuissé wines are produced under the Macon appellation within the commune of Fuissé in Southern Burgundy. This title covers white wine produced exclusively from Chardonnay grapes.

Background on the wine:

Nestled between the communes of Pouilly and Fuissé, the Vessigaud estate has been producing wines since the mid 19th century. Pierre Vessigaud took over the eleven hectare domaine from his father in 1998. Mostly planted over clay-limestone soils on mid-slopes, and with general south-easterly exposure, the vines of Domaine Vessigaud benefit perfectly from the natural conditions found in this corner of southern Burgundy. The vineyards are laboured manually, with no use of chemical 

herbicides or pesticides. Domaine Vessigaud achieved certified Organic status in 2013. This wine is from single vineyard called 'Le Haut de Fuissé' which is a 2 hectare, south-west facing site close to the boundary with Pouilly-Fuissé. In my opinion wines from here offer great value in contrast to their more famous Burgundian counterparts.


Tasting notes:
Pale yellow in the glass, bright aromatics (orange blossom, peach and gingerbread) with struck match and flint.  Good structure on the palate - beautiful lemony character, exotic stone fruit, saline freshness and impressive complexity. Dry, long and intense finish.

Chardonnay chilled at 4 degrees (right) versus cellar temperature (left) at 16 degrees



The glassware:
For classy glasses that look great, feel great and heighten the experience of drinking I'd recommend the brand Zalto from Austria (pictured above). They are mouth-blown (see picture below) plus they are lead oxide free which results in a lighter, more flexible glass. Zalto's aim is for the wine to reach its utmost potential in the glass... and they do!  Click here to purchase some.

The work of a highly skilled glass blower

Would also go well with:
Ok, so maybe you are not the biggest fan of fish or seafood? So another great match with this style of wine is whole roast chicken stuffed with lemon and herbs, with coriander pesto and a potato salad.

To finish:

Make up your own mind about which style of Chardonnay you prefer (ie chilled or cellar temperature) but our idea would be to try the dish and wine in the following format:
1. take a sip out of the chilled glass, then try the Toothfish.
2. take a sip out of the burgundy glass, then try the accompaniments.
3. take a sip out of chilled glass, then try the dish together (ie fish and other ingredients combined)

It is interesting to see how the wine shows up differently in alternate glassware and how temperature makes a massive difference when looking at food and wine combinations.

To buy:

The 2012 Macon-Fuissé ‘Le Haut Fuissé’ Domaine Vessigaud is imported by MorSul Wine Imports exclusively in Australia and can be tried at one of our venues.  Click here to browse at our MorSul venues.

Second vintage of my wine, Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir - 2012

Have you tried many 2012 releases from Victoria?  The hype about this vintage is high and in 2012 we continued the collaboration between myself, the Yarra Valley's Mac Forbes and Nicholas Crampton, to produce our next vintage of Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir.  Hats off to Mac Forbes, who's knowledge of the Yarra and his ability to extract and showcase the best qualities from each vineyard is an amazing talent.

After the challenging 2011 vintage, the 2012 vintage started with early worrying signs but blossomed into a classic vintage with conditions ideal and fruit all in balance. Again we decided to blend a wine from a couple of single vineyards, this time from two complimentary sites (50% each) of unique character. The Coldstream site has soil with a thin layer of grey loam over clay and 14 year old MV6 clone material whilst Seville has lean, grey clay and mudstone from MV6 vines planted in 1982. The MV6 clone generally produces small berries with thick skins which gives solid structure to the wine. The fruit from Seville brings freshness, acidity and purity of delicate red fruit characters whilst the warmer Coldstream site offers more structure and opulence to the blend for 2012.

Vintage 2012 - Mac Forbes Winery

All the good (and fun!) bits were included in the wine-making process... foot stomping, about 10% whole cluster and one quarter new oak in the mix. The result is a pinot of elegance and poise, but with a bit of extra depth and intensity compared to the 2011. Most importantly it has an approachability which draws you in and its versatility with food again matches last vintage.

I think it's important to leave the tasting notes up to you… but for me the palate displays the classic Mac Forbes interplay between fruit and bright, crunchy acidity. Light bodied but full flavoured with cranberry and red currant characters. Yes, it will develop even better in the bottle in a few months’ time, but we have decided to let it loose.

Tell your friends:  Drake is all about creating a wine that is perfect anytime and versatile with food (lots of duck!) in any environment.  It turns Mac’s single vineyard philosophy on its head and it is our goal to select the best fruit possible for our blend.

Recommended food matches: Thai green curry, duck pancakes, chicken satay, quail with beetroot & fig salad. If you are into cheese then the acidity and freshness matches strong washed rind brilliantly.


To order:   (RRP is $35)  Click here to purchase a bottle! Alternatively, I can send you an order form via email: matthew.dunne@viscosity.net.au



Killara Vineyard

Little Rhône Wonder

The Rhône Range

From Champagne we trained it south to Avignon… for a speed tour of Southern Rhône (1 day).   Best find was an up-and-coming producer based in the village of Cairanne, which will reach ‘growth’ status in 2014.  The village of Cairanne is on the southern Côtes du Rhône wine route and its quality wines are designated Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC. Wines from here possess good natural tannin.  I was impressed by their immediate approachability (good for a 'wine by the glass' pour!).

Pascal Franczak is only on his third vintage at ‘Château de Plaisir’, but he has hit the scene with great enthusiasm and willingness to do what it takes to reach high quality, well-priced wines that speak of where they are from.  The vineyard is being managed organically and although not certified yet, it is not far away.  All the wines are de-stemmed and produced in a pretty tiny domain that was built in the 1920s. Pascal also has the project of transforming the vacant ‘Château’ on the property (next to winery) into an 8 bedroom mini hotel with an eatery and swimming pool.  After seeing the space it makes absolute sense as it has a unique charm that would make it something special in the region.  Pascal has given himself two years to get it done!

Watch this space - Mini Hotel with a difference

2012 Château de Plaisir Côtes du Rhône Blanc (60% Clairette, 30%Viognier, 10% Bourboulenc)

This was a tank sample.  Incredible perfume of white florals with tangerine and orange blossom.  Palate medium bodied with juicy acidity and decent length, following through well. Clairette variety is known for giving freshness and elegance to the blend. Will these wines ever be popular in the Australian market though? 

2011 Château de Plaisir Côtes du Rhône Rosé (100% carignan)

Light cherry colour. Great acidity, medium bodied with red currants (strawberry & red cherry).  Good natural acidity in this wine with dry, persistent finish. Would be a hit for Rosé tragics who like a dry style with a bit more body.

2011 Château de Plaisir Côtes du Rhône Rouge (70% Grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault)

From 20-50 year old vines… dark red hue with hint of purple… a nose rich in both red and black fruits (dark cherry and sweet plum) with cinnamon, clove and liquorice.  Medium bodied palate, juicy with good length.  Wouldn’t require food to enjoy a glass or two of this!

2011 Château de Plaisir Cairanne Rouge (60% Grenache, 30% syrah, 10% carignan)

From 50-60 year old vines… slightly more plush and palate filling than the CDR and with a fraction more structure (from Syrah).  Leaning more to dark fruits, with red plum and blackberries and white pepper spice. I see them ageing well for the medium term.

IN A NUTSHELL:

‘Best meal’ for our cameo trip in Rhône: 'Le Tourne au Verre' (restaurant/wine bar) in Cairanne.

Apart from good food there was an excellent vibe and plenty of local winemakers who all seemed to mingle and get on like a house on fire! Some cool stuff by the glass also..

 

That's what I call smart pricing!

 

‘Best bottle shop’ experience in Rhône: ‘le vin devant soi’ in Avignon.

(use enomatic system so could try loads of great stuff to check out)

TELL YOUR FRIENDS:

You will find tonnes of great value wines from the Southern Rhône.. typically they produce medium bodied Grenache dominant reds that have a real energy, personality and elegance. Consistency can be up and down, but most importantly they are adaptable, food friendly styles that are perfect as the cooler months set in.  My pick for food matching is lamb roast with loads of garlic, rosemary and sweet potato.
 

Tour de Champagne - April 2013

Champagne - does any other beverage evoke a moment in time, a feeling, or that special place? I think not. Here is a little insight into some gems for our two day tour of the champagne region. There are 319 villages in Champagne with 17 Grand Cru and 41 Premier Cru sites, so this is really only a small glimpse… but here are some little beauties worth noting!

BRUNO PAILLARD - Montagne De Reims

Amazing to meet Alice Pallaird, daughter of Bruno and part of the 32 staff who work for her father. This is considered a smallish and relatively young ‘house’, making between 400,000 and 500,000 bottles a year.  Their largest export markets are Japan and Great Britain. Known for their ‘mult-vintage’ wines and for using different artists to complement their vintage range labels. Bruno wanted to add personality to the vintages but express their nature on the bottle labels. Basically artists are given two words that relate to the vintage (ie ‘structure’ and ‘velvet’ in 1996) and they are asked to submit works based on this.

The multi-vintage selection from Bruno Paillard

MV Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut
Made from the traditional varieties, with Pinot Noir winning the race out of the three with a 45% make up of the blend.. a wine that teases the palate with excellent balance and power – hints of toastiness, honeysuckle, and citrus (lime) with dry but textured finish. Spends 3 years on lees with 6 g/l dosage.

MV Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Rosé
Has always been a crowd charmer at ARIA Sydney. Mostly made up of pinot noir (percentage undisclosed) and from 12 vineyards. Dosage also 6 g/l with high toned acidity and red currants being the flavour of the day.

MV Bruno Paillard ‘Reserve Primee’ Blanc de Blancs
From three terroirs, spends 4 years on lees with aromas of white flowers, fresh almond and tangerine. Tightly built and fine bubbles.  For me, the complete aperitif.  Gets you salivating!

JEAN LALLEMENT – Verzenay in Montagne de Reims

The selection from Lallement

We were treated to some excellent hospitality by Alexandra Lallement and it was an honour to try their range of wines. The production is tiny with about 25,000 bottles per year made, 80% of which is exported.  The ‘grand cru’ village of Verzenay produces pinot noir with incredible perfume but has more elegant result on the palate when compared to the wines from Ambonnay. Alexandra’s husband, Jean-Luc is at the helm and all the base wines undergo malolactic fermentation. These were wines with great personality and which scream of their origin.

NV Jean Lallement Brut Tradition (80% Pinot Noir & 20% Chardonnay)
Rich and toasty with brioche and baked pastry notes upfront.  Then later comes the liquorice and fennel seed hit with fresh almonds and hints of nougat.  6 g/l of dosage so pretty dry but delectable and artisian.

NV Jean Lallement Brut Reserve (80% Pinot Noir & 20% Chardonnay) 

From vieilles vignes (old vines between age of 35 and 45 years).  Drier than the Brut Tradition with 4 g/l of dosage, some more savoury notes with pine needles, citrus and bracing mineral notes.

NV Jean Lallement Rosè (100% Pinot Noir from 2009 Harvest)

100% pinot noir assemblage – all from Grand Cru sites. A much more serious style that would hold up well into main course territory for food and wine matches - riper red currants and cherry notes. Dosage of 4 g/l keeps it nice and tense.

MICHEL ARNOULD  -  Verzenay in Montagne de Reims

Up the hill we went (5 minutes) to visit Patrick Arnould, a humble man with an incredible passion to produce wines of personality and quality. He makes about 100,000 bottles a year and owns 12 hectares, 95% of which are also in Verzenay. His pinot noir from the village has a northern exposure thus giving it a certain ‘lightness’ in the mouth. There is consistency throughout the whole range with a super fine bead and elegance. Solid stuff!



NV Michel Arnould Brut Reserve

NV Michel Arnould Brut Reserve (70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay)

Clean, fresh, immediately appealing with 10 g/l dosage and aged for 2-3 years before disgorging. Crisp minerality so defined with citrus and hint of nectarines.

NV Michel Arnould Grande Cuvée (70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay)

Some more exotic notes with lovely crisp minerality and drive.  Slightly deeper than the Brut Reserve but the acidity keeps everything in harmony (9 g/l dosage).

2007 Michel Arnould ‘B-50’ (50% pinot & 50% chardonnay)

This wine has not been released yet so was a real privilege to so how it is embracing its journey in the bottle.  It is fermented in 2-3 year old burgundy oak and does not go through any malolactic fermentation. Loved the ‘vinous’ appeal this wine had and Patrick has had a mixed response to it so far.  Thumbs up from us… definitely a main course wine and not for the faint hearted.

NV Michel Arnould Brut Rosé (100% pinot noir from Grand Cru vineyards)

Ripe raspberry fruits with sour cherry, sweet candy cane and sherbet.. quite a powerful entry but streamlined enough for dry finish. 9 g/l dosage

 R & L LEGRAS – Chouilly in the Côtes des Blancs

2004 R & L Legras‘Presidence’ Vieilles Vignes’

Chef de cave Julien Barbier is going to be a superstar.  From the winery, to the fit out, to the end result in the bottle… there is so much going on here. Plus there is an important link with gastronomy as they sell 80% of their wines to restaurants.  Places such as Guy Savoir and La Tour d’Argent  in Paris are high-profile examples of restaurants that use their own label in conjunction with this producer.  Julien states they make 150,000 bottles on average per year and his passion for the Chardonnay dominant Champagnes from here is evident.  In his words: “Chardonnay from Chouilly is good young or old - there is a high level of natural acidity”.

NV R & L Legras Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay)
High toned acidity, with lemon citrus, white flowers and a super dry finish (dosage 7 g/l). Lightness and elegance are the theme here.

2004 R & L Legras ‘Presidence’ Vieilles Vignes’ (100% Chardonnay)
Toasty brioche aromatics with baked brioche and toasted almonds but then fresher notes of young grapefruit and lime zest.

NV R & L Legras Rosé (85% Pinot Noir & 15% Chardonnay)

Subtle expression of pinot noir from Ambonnay with chardonnay kick and 7 g/l of dosage.

1996 R & L Legras ‘Saint-Vincent’ (100% Chardonnay)               

This was the standout Champagne from our visit.  Yes I know it’s from 1996, one of the best vintages of all time, but it was compelling and spell binding. Things like orange rind, almonds, hazelnuts all came through with incredible balance and poise. Could drink it all day – no problem!

GUY CHARLEMAGNE – Les Mesnil-Sur-Oger

It may be located just across the road from the exclusive ‘Salon’, but this Champagne house has remarkable personality in its own right.  Located in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs, their vineyards total 15 h.a and the grapes are essentially chardonnay (87%) and the rest made up of pinot noir. Production is around 130,000 bottles a year of which 70% is exported.  They also have vineyards in Sézanne. Sales manager Elodie Caraskakis took us through the range.

  

Old versus New labels

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Nature (70% Chardonnay & 30% Pinot Noir)

This is their ‘no sugar’ example from the chalky soils of Sézanne.   It is vinified in termo regulated stainless steel.  Fresh but ripe… got some hints of green olive, white flowers and grapefruit.

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Classic (80% Chardonnay & 20% Pinot Noir)

Powerful nose of ripe summer fruit (cherry plum). Smooth entry on the palate with pear and mandarin character with soft, dry but long finish. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)

Terroir in Sézanne is dominated by chalk and clay and the result here is a more masculine style and a strongly coloured wine. Riper dark berry fruits shine here (blackberries and kirsch).. strawberry jam on the mid palate but dry, opulent finish. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Guy Charlemagne ‘Reserve’ Brut Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay)

From vineyards in Mesnil sur Oger and Oger with limestone soil, High-toned acidity, super dry with green olive and some more complex candied fruit notes (pineapple and angelica). 6 g/l dosage.

 HENRIET-BAZIN – Premier Cru & Grand Cru from Villers-Marmery

Henriet-Bazin.  You know you’re enjoying things when you walk out after two hours and it felt like 10 minutes!  From the get-go it was evident how much passion and pride are put into their wines and how excited they are about what they do – rightly so. For every Champagne we tasted Marie-Nöelle had in-depth descriptions of food matches.  For someone to be obsessed with this as me it was 7th heaven, and to hear her different take on things was both enlightening and an inspiration to push the envelope.

We were shown examples of terroir and for the east exposed village of Villers-Marmery, it is made up of gravely chalk, crushed little rocks, so the roots are able to go deep, giving pure expressions.  Bottles produced here range from 55,000 to 60,000 bottles a year.  They are located in La Grande Montagne de Reims but they also own vineyards in Verzenay and Verzy.

NV Henriet-Bazin Cuvée Sélection de Parcelles Brut

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (100% Pinot Noir from Verzenay & Verzy)

Lots going on here with red apple, white pepper and then on the palate there is toasted bread, brioche and pineapple. 5 g/l dosage and 100% from 2008 harvest – super fresh with high-toned acidity.

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Blancs Brut (100% Chardonnay from Villers-Marmery)

This is the ‘postcard’ wine of Villers-Marmery.. or as Nicolas puts it: “the little island of chardonnay in an ocean of pinot noir”.  Things like liquorice, lemon verbena and honeysuckle dazzle the palate.. creamy effervescent finish with excellent lemony acidity and mineral freshness. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Henriet-Bazin Cuvée Sélection de Parcelles Brut (50% Pinot Noir & 50% Chardonnay)

‘Fresh and mature’ are two words that sum up this wine.. honeysuckle, lime and pistachio on the nose and then on the palate there are crystallized fruits with exotic acacia honey and star anise. 8 g/l dosage and 70% coming from the 2007 harvest, and 30% of reserve wine.

2006 Henriet-Bazin ‘Grand Cru’ Brut (65% Pinot Noir & 35% Chardonnay)

Fresh mint and garden herbs on the nose and then on the palate there is spicy notes and some denser yellow fruits (preserved peach) with cinnamon and hints of toasty almonds.  Marie Nöelle  and Nicolas relate the ‘almond’ characters to be linked with the minerality in the soil. 8 g/l dosage from the fruity 2006 vintage.

NV Henriet-Bazin Rosé Brut ‘Grand Cru’ (50% Chardonnay & 50% Pinot Noir)

Do you like a more ‘vinous’ style of Rosé? Then this is for you as it includes 19% of red wine made by them, using the wine issued from maceration!  Fruity and concentrated nose with morello cherry, black pepper and clove.. Then creamy palate with dark red and black fruits shining.. blackcurrant, kirsch.  A trademark of this range is the lemony acidity and this still comes through here, which keeps everything fresh. Sensual and homogenous! 8 g/l dosage.

TO WRAP IT UP:
 

Best champagne tasted: 

1996 R & L Legras ‘Saint-Vincent’ Brut, Chouilly

 

Most exciting food & wine match:

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Brut and quail breast with caramalized apple & mushroom risotto.

Best dining ‘experience’:

L’assiette de Champenoise in Reims – worthy of its 2 Michelin Stars and what a wine list! All pages meticulously maintained and attention to detail oustanding.

Best dish at L’assiette de Champenoise:

Foie gras du Perigord – shaved pheasant foie gras with sour cherries.

 

Melt in your mouth

Trends/Fashion:

In a nutshell most producers we spoke to this trip have seen in increase in Blanc de Noir sales and a decrease in Rosé popularity.  Zero dosage wines (no sugar added) are on the up in popularity but consumers seem to have a love-hate relationship with them.  So in essence most of these trends are in line with Australia except I would be interested to know how Rosé is fairing at home as from my end they seem to sell quite well at the moment, compared to a couple of years ago. Overall Australians are drinking more bubbly helped by the strong Aussie dollar driving shelf prices down. New figures from France's Champagne Bureau show Australia imported 4.862 million bottles in 2011, an increase of almost a third. America and Japan are other big movers in Champagne sales.

From a service end, a lot of restaurants/bars are moving away from serving Champagne in traditional flutes.. and the following type of white wine glass is being presented... bravo to that!

 

The move away from traditional flutes

 

 

     

My Best find for 2012 - High Altitude Sparkling

                                                                                                                                                                                                         

2008 Courabyra '805' Sparkling, Tumbarumba NSW ($45)

Are you a thrill seeker? Like things from a high altitude? From colour to aroma, to flavour and the story... this sparkling wine has it all! It ticks all the boxes and we've had a wonderful response to it being poured by the glass at ARIA Sydney.  It has been refreshing to find a wine with solid consistency and vibrancy of fruit.

It all started in April this year when I visited Eden Road winery in Murrumbateman for a Tumbarumba Workshop and International benchmark tasting.  Amongst other great wines that day, I tried the 2001 Courabyra '805' Sparkling from Tumbarumba.  I fell in love with this wine.   A few months later I tried the 2008 and haven't looked back since.  I've written about wines tasting better when consumed in their own territory.  Courabyra sparkling wines taste great at their origin but they also taste delicious when consumed from far away.

Courabyra means 'pleasant place, family gathering' in Aboriginal.  It is a sub-region that sits about 6km north of Tumbarumba, and is located 730 metres above sea level in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains, near Australia's highest peak Mount Kosciuszko.  Wines from this sub-region typically produce styles that are high in natural acidity and minerality.  The other sub-region of Tumbarumba is Maragle which is south and lower altitude, producing more textural wines with upfront fruit character.

Courabyra wines is the project of Brian and Cathy Gairn who established the vineyard site in 1993. The logo has been designed around the family theme as Cathy is one of eleven children.  The circle in the middle of the logo represents one family member with ten siblings around the outside. The '805' refers to the vineyard address.

The 2008 is a blend of 62% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay and 8% pinot meunier.  The wine spent 3.5 years on lees and was disgorged in November 2011.  The sparkling base wine was put through malolactic fermentation.

Tasting notes: amazing light straw colour with aromas of pear skin, mineral and warm brioche.  Soft, creamy palate with citrus backbone and hints of red currants, gingerbread and figs. Dry finish.

Would go well with:  tuna sashimi & seaweed salad, BBQ snapper with mushroom risotto, gruyere or strong washed rind cows milk cheeses.

Tell your friends: Tumbarumba was named by the Wiradjuri people to mean 'Hollow Sounding Ground'.

Impress your friends:  serve this sparkling in a Riedel pinot noir glass if you are pairing it with a main course.  Being Pinot Noir dominant this will help bring out those red fruit flavours and will also soften the texture of the wine.  If you want to stick with a classy champagne flute then I'd recommend the brand Zalto from Austria (pictured below). They are mouth-blown, look amazing, plus they are lead oxide free which results in a lighter, more flexible glass. Best of all they are well priced. 



Zalto Champagne Flute

                       

To buy Courabyra:  Click here to get some bubbles for Christmas ($45 per bottle)! 

Hands down this is my best find for 2012 and without a doubt one of the finest producers of sparkling wine in Australia. Make your own mind up and try a bottle.

2011 Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley - A wine by Matt Dunne

My first release - food-friendly pinot noir from a trio of single vineyards 
 




2011 Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley Victoria

It's always been a dream of mine to get involved with producing a wine and last year I was excited to be given the opportunity.  The concept of the brand 'Drake' is about enjoying interesting wine with great food. 'Drake' is a male duck, which is the ultimate food match with pinot noir, whilst the name 'Samson' refers to two guys with plenty of curly hair, and a bit of flair!  Drake 'Samson' Pinot  Noir is a collaboration between the Yarra Valley’s Mac Forbes and myself (us of the curly hair).  2011 was a wet and cold vintage – a struggle for many. The wines I have seen so far are all lighter coloured styles but deceptively full flavoured.  I like the vintage for its approachability and elegance. They are wines to drink now but make your own mind up about the vintage as there are some good wines out there.

If you would like to try a bottle or 2 of Drake Samson, I've put details of how to order at the bottom of this post.

  

Why pinot?  I love the wines of Burgundy so traditionally that would mean I have a soft spot for the king and queen varieties... Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  I also love Mac’s single vineyard wines as they speak of their origin in the Yarra Valley - a region I have always been a fan of.  Mac has a wealth of experience which also spans overseas where he makes wine in Austria every year. His attention to detail and respect of the fruit is shown strongly in his winemaking.  From my end I wanted to help create a wine to suit modern cuisine, something interesting to think and talk about but at the same time not being too serious. A wine to enjoy no matter what the season, but with a good story.



Foot stomping the Seville fruit

Drake Samson turns Mac’s normal individual vineyard philosophy on its head, blending from three vineyards to create a style perfect for modern Australian cuisine. Killara vineyard is located on the banks of the Yarra River in Seville. We tasted through rows of berries in the vineyard, the higher up the riper and fuller they tasted - overall 2011 fruit is  high in acidity with low sugars.  Killara in 'Seville' makes up 33.3% of this blend and this site is made up of hard duplex soil bringing perfume, freshness and red currant crunch. 16.7% of the blend comes from the 'Yarra Glen' vineyard which offers tannic profile and chalkiness and is an east facing vineyard with granite soil.  The third vineyard, 'Coldstream’, makes up most of the blend (50%) and is southwest facing, adding opulence and textural elements being a warmer site with greater sun exposure. Coldstream has grey loam soils overlaying clay and 13 year old vines.  The MV6 clone is in all three vineyards and this is the sole clone used for the Drake.

The wine was hand picked and the cold soak was at 7 degrees. It spent 10 days on skins and was fermented in small open fermenters.   Most of the fruit was destemmed, we used about 10% whole bunch. The purpose of using whole bunch is to trap perfume in the wine and to build some complexity. Primarily hand plunged and foot stomped before maturation in large French oak (Damy) with one quarter new. The wine was racked only once prior to bottling which was in March.

This year the 2012 vintage is looking really exciting and we are making a blend from two single vineyards - Coldstream and Seville.  Stay tuned for an update on how it's progressing, the wines are currently in barrel and have just finished malolactic fermentation.

Tasting notes for 2011:  Perfumed nose of sour cherries, cranberry and garden herbs and then a super light, nervy palate with spicy rhubarb, sweet raspberry and savoury tannin profile.  Light bodied, full flavoured with a long, firm and dry finish with tight acid structure. 

In the Mac Forbes Winery

Would go well with:  Warm duck salad with roasted beetroot, quinoa, green beans and pomegranate.  If you are into cheese I like this pinot with 'cloth aged' cheddar and quince paste. What is your favourite food match with pinot noir?

Tell your friends:  Pinot noir is one of the most versatile grape varieties on the planet.. serve it at room temperature or serve it slightly chilled to completely change its dimensions.

Quantity produced:  135 dozen

To order:  RRP  is $30 per bottle

1)   Order direct:  2 bottles for $60 | 6 bottles for $160 | 12 bottles for $280
       (All prices with free freight included)  
2)   Contact Nicholas Crampton at Fourth Wave Wine                 
       nicholas@fourthwavewine.com.au or Mobile: 0417 670 655

Thanks:  Big thanks to Mac Forbes, Nicholas Crampton, Tony Fikkers, Andrew Dunn, Aaron Woods & David Baxter for their efforts, patience and enthusiasm with this project.

Shot of the 2011 Fruit

A Cabernet that is devilishly good!

This week at ARIA I sold two magnums of 1999 Domaine A Cabernet to a large table in for dinner. We sell these magnums for $495 a bottle. The wine is looking fantastic and reminded me I must share my earlier adventures to Tassie in 2012.

In February I had the opportunity to visit the Coal River Valley in Tasmania and in particular one of my all time favourite vineyards, Domaine A/Stoney Vineyard. The humble Peter and Ruth Althaus have owned the vineyard since 1989 and it's located about half an hour's drive north of Hobart. It was just by chance that I scheduled my visit an hour after Jancis Robinson MW (Master of Wine), who was in Tasmania and the keynote speaker for the 8th 'International Cool Climate Symposium'.

If your a Bordeaux fan you will love these wines... the 2006 Stoney Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon by Domaine A is an affordable cabernet blend that hits the mark.. It's from vines planted in 1973 and is made up 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. From a restaurant's point of view this is brilliant as being current release it has a few years bottle age on it (many current release wines need time in the cellar), it is good value for money and ready to drink now.  It's stated that this wine is one that's meant for short to medium term cellaring. Fair enough, but I reckon it would go a bit longer as it has excellent natural acidity, which is a hallmark feature of all the Domaine A/Stoney Vineyard wines.  They have a unique refreshing character on the palate which sets them apart.

Tasting notes:  vibrant nose of cassis, blackcurrant, dark cherries and eucalyptus. The palate is medium to full-bodied with ripe blackcurrants and dark chocolate. There are grippy tannins and the finish is intense with slight earthy, gamey characters and some delicate spice elements (sage and dried oregano).

Would go well with:  BBQ lamb cutlets marinated with olive oil, rosemary, sea salt and lemon zest. Serve it with a salad of white and purple cabbage, figs, walnuts, lots of fresh mint, balsamic and shaved parmesan.

Tell your friends: The Coal River Valley in Tasmania lies on the same latitude as Tuscany in Italy. 

To buy: Click here to get your hands on a bottle of this tasty wine ($28 per bottle).

Stoney Vineyard used to produce a straight Zinfandel and how awesome it was to try the 1982 on this visit. Once again the acidity was still there and there was a delicate perfume with an interesting spicy, earthy red fruit base with leather and dried herbs on the back palate. Tassie reds can last the distance and this is a prime example of how well the Coal River Valley can tackle a late ripening variety such as Zinfandel.

Wine Myth Buster - Challenge Your Perceptions

What are your thoughts on the old saying of 'white wine with white meat' and 'red wine with red meat'?  Sure, there are some golden rules for food and wine matching and much can be said about that one combination you've had where everything worked in total unison and it took you to eternal bliss.

How do you feel about ordering wine before you order food? Will the kitchen be able to cope if they're a seafood restaurant and you want to drink blockbuster reds all night?  One restaurant in Paris that puts wine first is 'Il Vino d'Enrico Bernardo'. They create your dish once you order the wine!  Cool concept, very spontaneous and the creator is a trained chef who has also been crowned 'best sommelier in the world'. His name is Enrico Bernardo. Click here to check out his restaurant. 

Why not push the boundaries and challenge your perceptions when it comes to food and wine combinations?  You won't know until you try and that's half the fun! Here's some ideas to ponder:

• Oysters natural with shallots, vodka & finger lime dressing - infuse a bottle of Belvedere vodka with the zest of 2-3 finger limes for 2 days. Finger limes are currently in season - don't use the pith as it will pollute the citrus infusion and I'd recommend straining out the zest once you are happy with the flavour. Keep in fridge and serve 30ml chilled with this dish for a refreshing match to get the palate going. Click here to grab a bottle of this Polish delight! ($59)
• 'BBQ chicken with tabouli, creamed corn & roasted spuds' -  why not try a vintage beer? The 2011 Endeavour 'Reserve' Pale Ale is brewed just out of Sydney (Canyonleigh) and has the palate weight to pack a punch against this dish. There are three different types of hops used and the malty characters work a treat with the char of the chicken.  Click here to buy a case. ($69)
• 'Crispy barramundi with mashed peas & braised fennel' - try a succulent pinot noir from a cool climate region such as the Canberra District. Nick Spencer is making some great wines down that way and his 2009 Eden Road 'The Long Road' Pinot Noir is vibrant and real winner with stronger, earthy fish such as barramundi. Click here to purchase. ($26 per bottle)
• Veal schnitzel, cabbage salad & rosti - it's summer so why not venture down the Rosé path? A fresh, dry and more savoury style is recommended for this dish so I would suggest the biodynamic 2011 Krinklewood 'Francesca' Mourvèdre Rosé from the Hunter Valley. Click here to order some. ($25 per bottle)
• Chocolate pudding with hazelnuts  - aged Sake works a treat with dark chocolate - the 1999 Chōkyū ‘Noble Brew’ Sake from Wagayama prefecture in Japan ($69 per bottle) is sherry-like and has amazing rancio and sesame aromatics with hints of caramel and toffee on the palate.  If you've never tried aged sake then what are you waiting for?  If you haven’t got a sweet tooth then it also works well with mushroom consommé.  Click here to grab some.

A glass of wine should be something you can enjoy with or without food.  Take it as seriously as you like but why not try out something new with your friends at home? I'm keen to hear about your favourite combinations or any new discoveries you might find.

What to look for when ordering wine

So you're at a restaurant with some friends or business associates and want to choose a bottle of wine from the list.  Here's a few points to keep in mind:

• First and foremost, don't be afraid to ask for assistance from the sommelier/wine staff.  Most restaurants with globe trotting lists, such as ARIA, have dedicated wine staff who's job it is to know the wine list inside out and be able to make recommendations.  Where possible be specific with your requests so you can get the best advice - do you want to enter the unknown, do you want to match wines to your meal, or can you suggest a favourite producer so the sommelier can get a feel for what style you like? 
• If the restaurant has a website do some research on-line before you dine to get a heads up on prices and perhaps some bottles you might like to try.  Getting 'price-shock' when you look at the wine list on a date is never a good look!
• Give the wine list and your guests equal but separate attention.  Especially with extensive wine lists, it's too easy to drift in and out and give neither the list or your guests the attention they deserve. Take five minutes to focus in on what wine(s) you want, so you can give your guests your undivided attention for the rest of the evening.
• Wines by the glass are becoming increasingly popular and are a great way to try different styles without breaking the budget.  Plus, by-the-glass options have become much more versatile and savvy in recent times.  If you're unsure, ask for a taste - great places welcome this. I'm a big fan of venues who pour wines by the glass at the table, although many don't.
• Are you celebrating a birthday or anniversary? It's always fun and exciting to to try old wines from a specific vintage (year) that has special meaning.. it can take you back to a moment in time or that special place.  
• If it's an older wine, ask about its origin, where has it come from? When the wine bottle is presented to you at the table have a look at the neck of the bottle.  How far is the level of the wine from top of the bottle? The term used to describe the fill level of wine is known as the 'ullage'. Evaporation is a natural occurrence in wine over time and the lower the ullage level means there is more space for oxygen within the bottle. This can increase the ageing process and can cause a higher rate of spoilage, often a result of poor storage or a faulty cork. For wines up to 20 years old in a riesling or burgundy-shaped bottle, ideally the level should be in the neck (about 2-3cm from the very top of the bottle). For wines more than 20 years old in the same format bottle you would expect the fill level to be about 4cm from the top. For 30 plus years a 5cm level is not uncommon. For bordeaux-style bottles, the ullage is measured using a different level rating system. For example, a bottle with a 'base neck' fill (BN) indicates the fill is at the bottom of the neck which is an excellent level for any wine 10 years or over.  Always have a look at the cork once opened and depending on how old it is and the variety, get advice on whether to have it decanted. Timing is everything!
• Vintages vary so do your homework on the best years for a particular wine or ask your sommelier.  At the same time it's good for you to form your own opinion - if there is a larger group why not try the same wine from different vintages? It's a great opportunity (and talking point) to see how a wine varies from vintage to vintage.

Whatever the case or the occasion it's all about enjoyment.. at the end of the day wine is there as one of the elements to help enhance your dining experience, whether you're after a glass or a bottle :)

A great Champagne cocktail - for those not having a dry January!

Well Christmas and New Year's is done for another year, and as always it was extremely busy at ARIA Restaurant.  Around this time customers interest turns to Champagne - it's still a traditional way to celebrate good times and special occasions.


Here's a simple but classy Champagne cocktail I found myself making a lot of this last month.  For those of you who still have the energy to enjoy a tipple in January - try this out and you'll see why it's so popular.


It's an old school cocktail that's easy to prepare at home or when your out. It's the delicious 'Classic Champagne Cocktail', which was created in the early 1800s. Here's what you need to make it:


Ingredients:

• Dash Angostura Bitters
• 1 x sugar cube
• 100ml Champagne (or Sparkling Wine)
• 20ml Cognac (optional)
• Lemon twist garnish

Method:  

• Coat sugar cube with bitters and place in bottom of Champagne flute.  If your after a bit of an extra kick start then add 20ml Cognac into the glass. Top with Champagne or sparkling wine. Lemon twist to garnish.  
• The sugar cube and bitters offers a nice contrast as it dissolves in the bottom of the glass. The lemon citrus garnish is really important too.

For the festive period I've been drinking the NV Veuve Fourny 'Grande Réserve' Premier Cru Brut from Avize in Champagne.  It represents such good value and is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir.  It has an attractive complexity and creaminess (from the pinot) yet maintains a freshness with notes of green apple and citrus whilst it maintains pinpoint acidity.


Click here to get your hands on a bottle. ($59 per bottle)


Wishing you good cheer and all the best for 2012!

And the winner is...

Congratulations goes to Neil Beck of Robina in Queensland, who is our winner of the 2006 Standish Wine Co. 'The Standish' Shiraz Magnum from Barossa Valley - well done!   Thanks to everyone who entered. Stay tuned as early next year we will choose another great bottle of wine to give away to one of our subscribers.

Wine Cocktails - Sophisticated and Retro

It's December and your probably crazy busy with Christmas parties over the next few weeks.  If you're thinking about having a party yourself then why not consider these 'wine lover' cocktails?

Wine-based cocktails...This is where sommeliers and bar tenders get the chance to team up to create some exciting combinations.  For me, it's cool to see wine in a different light, where its 'part' of something as opposed to the main focal point.  More and more restaurants are incorporating wine-based cocktails, beer and sake into tasting menus in search of matches to take things over the edge.

'Virtually Venice'  (Sophisticated)

• 30ml Veneto inspired red (I'd recommend the 2007 Freeman 'Secco' from Hilltops in NSW)
• Freshly pulped raspberry (use 10)
• 30ml Dubonnet (a sweet wine-based aperitif)
• 30ml Armagnac
• Sugar syrup
• Prosecco sparkling wine

Method:  Thoroughly pulp raspberry, red wine, sugar syrup, dubonnet and armagnac. Add ice then shake and strain.  Slowly pour Prosecco in champagne flute over the pulped mixture. Garnish with one raspberry.

Would go well with:  Turkey and cranberry sauce, cured ham & olives, roasted pork with apple sauce.

Tell your friends:  The Freeman 'Secco' red is a blend of rondinella and corvina - these are the prized amarone grapes which are natives of the Veneto region in north-east Italy, but do well in Hilltops too.

Click here to buy a bottle of 2007 Freeman 'Secco' from Hilltops ($30 per bottle)

Click here to buy NV Serafini & Vidotto Bollicine di Prosecco from Veneto ($20 per bottle)

'Santa's Slay' (Sophisticated)

• 15ml campari
• 10ml ruby red grapfruit juice
• 45ml tanqueray gin
• 150ml dry rosé style Sparkling or Champagne (for the foam)  
• 20ml rose syrup (for the foam)
• 300ml egg whites (for the foam)

Method:  Muddle 1/3 ruby red grapefruit with a teaspoon of white sugar, add the campari and tanqueray, add ice, shake and double strain into a martini glass.  To make the foam you will need a cream whipper/soda syphon.. Add 300ml of egg whites, 150ml dry rosé sparkling and 20ml of rose syrup in a boston shaker.  Then add this to the soda syphon and charge.  I'd recommend charging it twice.  If you haven't got a syphon then not to worry, just use a mix master to blend the mix thoroughly.  Then you are set to layer the top of martini glass with the Rose emulsion.


Tell your friends: It's not from Champagne but it's French, dry and delicious. The NV Bouvet Rosé Excellence is a great value alternative, it is made in the Loire Valley from Cabernet Franc.  

Click here to buy a cream whipper/soda syphon (approx $95 each).
Click here to buy some NV Bouvet 'rosé excellence' brut  ($34 per bottle).

'Wet Your Whistle'  (Retro)

• 60ml Henriques & Henriques Madeira 'Monte Secco Extra Dry' 3 year old
• 1/2 fresh lime
• Dash bitters
• Soda water

Method:  Squeeze fresh lime over ice in highball glass.  Add dash bitters.  Fill half way with soda and then add 60ml Madeira. Add touch more soda..Stir with swizzle stick.

Would go well with with:  Smoked salmon with capers, fresh prawns with aioli, spring rolls with sweet chilli sauce.  If you want to give the Madeira a go by itself then serve it chilled - it would go great with christmas pudding or hard cheese with quince paste and crackers.

Tell your friends:  The island of Madeira is located west of Morocco in the Atlantic Ocean. It has become famous for its fortified wine, which is deliberately heated to replicate the sea voyages during the 'Age of Exploration', where intense movement and equatorial temperatures transformed the wine into Madeira (an accident that was meant to be!).

Recommended:  At the start of the evening to get the palate going.

Click here to buy some lip smacking Madeira for this great aperitif cocktail! ($26 per bottle)

'80s Wine Cooler'  (Retro)

• 30ml cointreau
• 30ml strawberry liqueur
• Riesling (I'd use something youthful, bone dry from the Eden Valley, South Australia)
• Macerated fruits (blueberry, strawberry, raspberry, mulberry).  Ideally you want to macerate the fruit in the cointreau and strawberry liqueur for 48 hours before using to intensify the flavours.

Method: Mix macerated fruits thoroughly and then in a white wine glass pour the Riesling over the macerated fruit mix.  If you like a bit of spritz then add some ice and soda.  Serve in a wine glass.

Recommended:  Making a pre-mix fruit maceration in bulk to save time.

As another option to keep the 'red' theme going, you might want to consider a sparkling shiraz at some point as it will also pair nicely with your turkey, ham and of course... the legendary pudding.  Stay tuned for more on this delicious drop!