Tour de Champagne - April 2013

Champagne - does any other beverage evoke a moment in time, a feeling, or that special place? I think not. Here is a little insight into some gems for our two day tour of the champagne region. There are 319 villages in Champagne with 17 Grand Cru and 41 Premier Cru sites, so this is really only a small glimpse… but here are some little beauties worth noting!

BRUNO PAILLARD - Montagne De Reims

Amazing to meet Alice Pallaird, daughter of Bruno and part of the 32 staff who work for her father. This is considered a smallish and relatively young ‘house’, making between 400,000 and 500,000 bottles a year.  Their largest export markets are Japan and Great Britain. Known for their ‘mult-vintage’ wines and for using different artists to complement their vintage range labels. Bruno wanted to add personality to the vintages but express their nature on the bottle labels. Basically artists are given two words that relate to the vintage (ie ‘structure’ and ‘velvet’ in 1996) and they are asked to submit works based on this.

The multi-vintage selection from Bruno Paillard

MV Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Brut
Made from the traditional varieties, with Pinot Noir winning the race out of the three with a 45% make up of the blend.. a wine that teases the palate with excellent balance and power – hints of toastiness, honeysuckle, and citrus (lime) with dry but textured finish. Spends 3 years on lees with 6 g/l dosage.

MV Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Rosé
Has always been a crowd charmer at ARIA Sydney. Mostly made up of pinot noir (percentage undisclosed) and from 12 vineyards. Dosage also 6 g/l with high toned acidity and red currants being the flavour of the day.

MV Bruno Paillard ‘Reserve Primee’ Blanc de Blancs
From three terroirs, spends 4 years on lees with aromas of white flowers, fresh almond and tangerine. Tightly built and fine bubbles.  For me, the complete aperitif.  Gets you salivating!

JEAN LALLEMENT – Verzenay in Montagne de Reims

The selection from Lallement

We were treated to some excellent hospitality by Alexandra Lallement and it was an honour to try their range of wines. The production is tiny with about 25,000 bottles per year made, 80% of which is exported.  The ‘grand cru’ village of Verzenay produces pinot noir with incredible perfume but has more elegant result on the palate when compared to the wines from Ambonnay. Alexandra’s husband, Jean-Luc is at the helm and all the base wines undergo malolactic fermentation. These were wines with great personality and which scream of their origin.

NV Jean Lallement Brut Tradition (80% Pinot Noir & 20% Chardonnay)
Rich and toasty with brioche and baked pastry notes upfront.  Then later comes the liquorice and fennel seed hit with fresh almonds and hints of nougat.  6 g/l of dosage so pretty dry but delectable and artisian.

NV Jean Lallement Brut Reserve (80% Pinot Noir & 20% Chardonnay) 

From vieilles vignes (old vines between age of 35 and 45 years).  Drier than the Brut Tradition with 4 g/l of dosage, some more savoury notes with pine needles, citrus and bracing mineral notes.

NV Jean Lallement Rosè (100% Pinot Noir from 2009 Harvest)

100% pinot noir assemblage – all from Grand Cru sites. A much more serious style that would hold up well into main course territory for food and wine matches - riper red currants and cherry notes. Dosage of 4 g/l keeps it nice and tense.

MICHEL ARNOULD  -  Verzenay in Montagne de Reims

Up the hill we went (5 minutes) to visit Patrick Arnould, a humble man with an incredible passion to produce wines of personality and quality. He makes about 100,000 bottles a year and owns 12 hectares, 95% of which are also in Verzenay. His pinot noir from the village has a northern exposure thus giving it a certain ‘lightness’ in the mouth. There is consistency throughout the whole range with a super fine bead and elegance. Solid stuff!



NV Michel Arnould Brut Reserve

NV Michel Arnould Brut Reserve (70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay)

Clean, fresh, immediately appealing with 10 g/l dosage and aged for 2-3 years before disgorging. Crisp minerality so defined with citrus and hint of nectarines.

NV Michel Arnould Grande Cuvée (70% Pinot Noir & 30% Chardonnay)

Some more exotic notes with lovely crisp minerality and drive.  Slightly deeper than the Brut Reserve but the acidity keeps everything in harmony (9 g/l dosage).

2007 Michel Arnould ‘B-50’ (50% pinot & 50% chardonnay)

This wine has not been released yet so was a real privilege to so how it is embracing its journey in the bottle.  It is fermented in 2-3 year old burgundy oak and does not go through any malolactic fermentation. Loved the ‘vinous’ appeal this wine had and Patrick has had a mixed response to it so far.  Thumbs up from us… definitely a main course wine and not for the faint hearted.

NV Michel Arnould Brut Rosé (100% pinot noir from Grand Cru vineyards)

Ripe raspberry fruits with sour cherry, sweet candy cane and sherbet.. quite a powerful entry but streamlined enough for dry finish. 9 g/l dosage

 R & L LEGRAS – Chouilly in the Côtes des Blancs

2004 R & L Legras‘Presidence’ Vieilles Vignes’

Chef de cave Julien Barbier is going to be a superstar.  From the winery, to the fit out, to the end result in the bottle… there is so much going on here. Plus there is an important link with gastronomy as they sell 80% of their wines to restaurants.  Places such as Guy Savoir and La Tour d’Argent  in Paris are high-profile examples of restaurants that use their own label in conjunction with this producer.  Julien states they make 150,000 bottles on average per year and his passion for the Chardonnay dominant Champagnes from here is evident.  In his words: “Chardonnay from Chouilly is good young or old - there is a high level of natural acidity”.

NV R & L Legras Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay)
High toned acidity, with lemon citrus, white flowers and a super dry finish (dosage 7 g/l). Lightness and elegance are the theme here.

2004 R & L Legras ‘Presidence’ Vieilles Vignes’ (100% Chardonnay)
Toasty brioche aromatics with baked brioche and toasted almonds but then fresher notes of young grapefruit and lime zest.

NV R & L Legras Rosé (85% Pinot Noir & 15% Chardonnay)

Subtle expression of pinot noir from Ambonnay with chardonnay kick and 7 g/l of dosage.

1996 R & L Legras ‘Saint-Vincent’ (100% Chardonnay)               

This was the standout Champagne from our visit.  Yes I know it’s from 1996, one of the best vintages of all time, but it was compelling and spell binding. Things like orange rind, almonds, hazelnuts all came through with incredible balance and poise. Could drink it all day – no problem!

GUY CHARLEMAGNE – Les Mesnil-Sur-Oger

It may be located just across the road from the exclusive ‘Salon’, but this Champagne house has remarkable personality in its own right.  Located in the heart of the Côtes des Blancs, their vineyards total 15 h.a and the grapes are essentially chardonnay (87%) and the rest made up of pinot noir. Production is around 130,000 bottles a year of which 70% is exported.  They also have vineyards in Sézanne. Sales manager Elodie Caraskakis took us through the range.

  

Old versus New labels

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Nature (70% Chardonnay & 30% Pinot Noir)

This is their ‘no sugar’ example from the chalky soils of Sézanne.   It is vinified in termo regulated stainless steel.  Fresh but ripe… got some hints of green olive, white flowers and grapefruit.

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Classic (80% Chardonnay & 20% Pinot Noir)

Powerful nose of ripe summer fruit (cherry plum). Smooth entry on the palate with pear and mandarin character with soft, dry but long finish. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Guy Charlemagne Brut Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)

Terroir in Sézanne is dominated by chalk and clay and the result here is a more masculine style and a strongly coloured wine. Riper dark berry fruits shine here (blackberries and kirsch).. strawberry jam on the mid palate but dry, opulent finish. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Guy Charlemagne ‘Reserve’ Brut Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay)

From vineyards in Mesnil sur Oger and Oger with limestone soil, High-toned acidity, super dry with green olive and some more complex candied fruit notes (pineapple and angelica). 6 g/l dosage.

 HENRIET-BAZIN – Premier Cru & Grand Cru from Villers-Marmery

Henriet-Bazin.  You know you’re enjoying things when you walk out after two hours and it felt like 10 minutes!  From the get-go it was evident how much passion and pride are put into their wines and how excited they are about what they do – rightly so. For every Champagne we tasted Marie-Nöelle had in-depth descriptions of food matches.  For someone to be obsessed with this as me it was 7th heaven, and to hear her different take on things was both enlightening and an inspiration to push the envelope.

We were shown examples of terroir and for the east exposed village of Villers-Marmery, it is made up of gravely chalk, crushed little rocks, so the roots are able to go deep, giving pure expressions.  Bottles produced here range from 55,000 to 60,000 bottles a year.  They are located in La Grande Montagne de Reims but they also own vineyards in Verzenay and Verzy.

NV Henriet-Bazin Cuvée Sélection de Parcelles Brut

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (100% Pinot Noir from Verzenay & Verzy)

Lots going on here with red apple, white pepper and then on the palate there is toasted bread, brioche and pineapple. 5 g/l dosage and 100% from 2008 harvest – super fresh with high-toned acidity.

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Blancs Brut (100% Chardonnay from Villers-Marmery)

This is the ‘postcard’ wine of Villers-Marmery.. or as Nicolas puts it: “the little island of chardonnay in an ocean of pinot noir”.  Things like liquorice, lemon verbena and honeysuckle dazzle the palate.. creamy effervescent finish with excellent lemony acidity and mineral freshness. 8 g/l dosage.

NV Henriet-Bazin Cuvée Sélection de Parcelles Brut (50% Pinot Noir & 50% Chardonnay)

‘Fresh and mature’ are two words that sum up this wine.. honeysuckle, lime and pistachio on the nose and then on the palate there are crystallized fruits with exotic acacia honey and star anise. 8 g/l dosage and 70% coming from the 2007 harvest, and 30% of reserve wine.

2006 Henriet-Bazin ‘Grand Cru’ Brut (65% Pinot Noir & 35% Chardonnay)

Fresh mint and garden herbs on the nose and then on the palate there is spicy notes and some denser yellow fruits (preserved peach) with cinnamon and hints of toasty almonds.  Marie Nöelle  and Nicolas relate the ‘almond’ characters to be linked with the minerality in the soil. 8 g/l dosage from the fruity 2006 vintage.

NV Henriet-Bazin Rosé Brut ‘Grand Cru’ (50% Chardonnay & 50% Pinot Noir)

Do you like a more ‘vinous’ style of Rosé? Then this is for you as it includes 19% of red wine made by them, using the wine issued from maceration!  Fruity and concentrated nose with morello cherry, black pepper and clove.. Then creamy palate with dark red and black fruits shining.. blackcurrant, kirsch.  A trademark of this range is the lemony acidity and this still comes through here, which keeps everything fresh. Sensual and homogenous! 8 g/l dosage.

TO WRAP IT UP:
 

Best champagne tasted: 

1996 R & L Legras ‘Saint-Vincent’ Brut, Chouilly

 

Most exciting food & wine match:

NV Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Brut and quail breast with caramalized apple & mushroom risotto.

Best dining ‘experience’:

L’assiette de Champenoise in Reims – worthy of its 2 Michelin Stars and what a wine list! All pages meticulously maintained and attention to detail oustanding.

Best dish at L’assiette de Champenoise:

Foie gras du Perigord – shaved pheasant foie gras with sour cherries.

 

Melt in your mouth

Trends/Fashion:

In a nutshell most producers we spoke to this trip have seen in increase in Blanc de Noir sales and a decrease in Rosé popularity.  Zero dosage wines (no sugar added) are on the up in popularity but consumers seem to have a love-hate relationship with them.  So in essence most of these trends are in line with Australia except I would be interested to know how Rosé is fairing at home as from my end they seem to sell quite well at the moment, compared to a couple of years ago. Overall Australians are drinking more bubbly helped by the strong Aussie dollar driving shelf prices down. New figures from France's Champagne Bureau show Australia imported 4.862 million bottles in 2011, an increase of almost a third. America and Japan are other big movers in Champagne sales.

From a service end, a lot of restaurants/bars are moving away from serving Champagne in traditional flutes.. and the following type of white wine glass is being presented... bravo to that!

 

The move away from traditional flutes