Go on - I dare you to try a Riesling!

Riesling originates from Germany, first appearing in the Rhiengau region in 1435.  Its popularity is improving but it continues to be 'hot and cold' in the Australian market and with so many different styles people often still have the notion that it's going to be sweet.  In our restaurant it does have a following but it's often only sold by recommendation.  Many sweeter styles are produced (Australia included) but I challenge you to grab a bottle of a 'dryer' style, such as a young Clare Valley Riesling, and give it a red hot go.  Why?  Because in my mind, Riesling is one of the most versatile wines with food due to its acidity, plus it can live a long life and to see it evolve over time is both intriguing and rewarding.

So what is 'dry' Riesling? In Australia it's generally a Riesling with less than 8 grams of residual sugar per litre. Meanwhile the European Union classifies 'dry' as no more than 4 grams of residual sugar per litre.. no wonder things get confusing!  German wines labelled as 'trocken' (dry) are a good place to start, and are generally softer in their youth than most Australian Rieslings, usually there is a bit more fruit sweetness and the alcohol is a bit lower.

Kerri Thompson makes some of the best and purest Riesling in Australia.  Kerri is the owner/winemaker for 'wines by KT' in the Clare Valley and her CV includes previously being winemaker at Leasingham and working abroad both in Tuscany and France (Beaujolais). Kerri only picked 1 in 3 bunches during the very wet 2011 harvest, thus the yields are down on the previous vintage.  I have just tried her latest single vineyard releases and they are wines that will challenge your previous perceptions of Riesling.

This set of KT Riesling is on the 'dryer' scale and I like them because they have personality, energy and precision.  They also have a 'calmness' about them.  Kerri has adopted a natural farming philosophy going down the path of biodynamic practices.  This has lead to more microflora activity in the soil and improved that quality of the fruit.  Here's a run down of some of her latest gems:


2011 'Peglidis Vineyard' Watervale Riesling by KT  ($32 per bottle)
- highly aromatic and fresh with tangy citrus punch upfront (limey slate) and a dry, chalky finish.

2011 'Churinga Vineyard' Watervale Riesling by KT ($32 per bottle)
- riper than the Peglidis with floral fennel notes and lime/lemon freshness. Some more exotic yellow fruit characters.  Finishes dry and clean.

2011 'Melva' Watervale Riesling by KT  ($28 per bottle)
- contains about 9 grams of residual sugar, more of an off-dry style (slight sweetness).  Same citric profile with with a more pillowy texture and softer framework.  More opulence and upfront primary fruits.

Tasting Notes for Dryer Rieslings
 Goes well with:  Japanese cuisine (particularly sushi), quiche (holds up to egg really well), sweet shellfish. Gruyere style cheeses are also great with aged Riesling.


Try this with your guests:  Serve a young Riesling blind to your friends against a Sauvignon Blanc (same vintage) and ask them to pick which they prefer.  But the catch is... they must decide which they like better with and without food!  Then come back and leave us some comments on what you find - I think you'll be surprised!

Cellaring potential:  3-20+ years, depending on region and vintage. As Riesling ages it typically becomes riper, darker and more textural, with softening acidity and less upfront fruit characters. Sometimes the older vintages have distinct kerosene characters on the nose. This can create great synergy with the honey and toasty notes on the palate.

To buy:  If you want a dryer style of Riesling you need to look for a wine with lower sugar levels.  Many Aussie producers now show the 'RS' (Residual Sugar) amount on the front label (eg RS 16).  So keep an eye out for an RS that's 8 or less for a dryer wine. Otherwise if you're unsure then consult with the sommelier/wine merchant to guide you in your choice.  Cheers!