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Thursday 3 November 2011

Pinot Noir - Try these two Australian wonder drops

Pinot Noir produces some of the most expressive (and expensive!) wines on the planet.  It's a variety that is super versatile with food and on its day can fly solo like no other.  Pinot Noir is known as the 'king' of red grape varieties and the name is derived from the French words for 'pine' and 'black' which alludes to the varietal's tightly clustered, pine-cone shaped bunches. Typically, it is thin skinned with small berries. 

The popularity of pinot has risen dramatically in the last few years, and a more defined approach in Australia has seen significant sub-regional differences from individual wine regions.  For me, good Pinot is so appealing as although it contains tannins, it can be the most silky, slurpy and downright seductive drink around.  One of my all time favourite 'pinot' moments was opening a 1987 Mount Mary Pinot at ARIA, and it being every bit as delicious as I'd hoped -  the acidity was still in check and it had really interesting secondary characters.

Victoria in Australia hails as one of the best producing cool climate pinot states and is one of my all time favourite places to visit.... but I thought it would be exciting to highlight a couple of 'lesser' known, but still excellent quality regions that can sing a serious pinot song.

2005 Hatherleigh Pinot Noir, Southern Tablelands  New South Wales ($45 per bottle)


This Pinot is made by 'Master of Wine' Nick Bullied, and the vineyard is located in the Southern Tablelands of New South Wales.  Nick is a long-term Brokenwood partner, show judge and wine-maker..  These vines are located at Crookwell, at the Great Diving Range, so the vineyard is in excess of 900 metres altitude.  The label is Hatherleigh and the current release comes from the 2005 vintage.  This wine shows how good a pinot can look when it's given some extra time in bottle to develop.  Bravo to Nick for holding the wine back.

Tasting notes:  light body, brick red hue with aromatics of sour cherry, stewed plum, damp earth and spice. The palate has a 'Euro' feel with great intensity and unique, grippy tannins that cry out for some food.

Would go well with:  mushroom risotto with parmesan cheese, charcuterie plate with calamata olives and anchovy sticks, natural rinded cow's milk cheeses.  If your a fish fanatic then Barramundi is a winner with this - it has an earthy complexity and with a red wine based sauce it would marry well.

Tell your friends:  There are currently 299 people who have the 'Master of Wine' qualification in the world and 18 come from Australia.

To serve:  If you can serve your pinot around 16 degrees it will gradually warm up nicely in the glass.  If you serve it lightly chilled then you can pair it with a greater array of dishes.

To buyClick here to get your hands on a bottle of Nick's pinot (or two!).

2009 The Lake House 'Premium Reserve' Pinot Noir, Denmark  Great Southern WA ($45 per bottle)


Premium Reserve Pinot Noir

The second pinot of interest is from Denmark in the Great Southern region of Western Australia..  Denmark is one of five sub-regions of Great Southern and is set in a stunning location. 'The Lake House' vineyard are making some exciting pinot that will make you take another sip.  Dynamic duo, Garry Capelli (owner and vigernon) and James Kellie (winemaker) are pushing boundaries and their inspiration has come from Vanya Cullen's biodynamic practices in Margaret River.

Great Southern, like Margaret River, is typically more famous for Chardonnay and Cabernet, due to the warmer climates and more coastal influences.  On a wine list, I've found that listing pinots from W.A attracts interest, and at ARIA we have had great success with Picardy wines from Pemberton, which I believe age exceptionally well.

Tasting notes:  super light bodied with aromas of rhubarb, wild sage, freshly cut strawberries.. leading to a red fruit laden palate with a velvety texture and a lick of cedary/toasty oak on the back.

Would go well with:  duck breast with pomegranates & rocket with balsamic glaze, italian sausages with grilled onions and sweet potato mash, peking duck pancakes, roasted pork belly with hoisin sauce.

Tell your friends:  The Pannell family of Picardy in Pemberton are the pioneers of Pinot Noir in Western Australia.  They founded Moss Wood in Margaret River in 1969. Try their Tete de Cuvee pinot (best of vintage) - one of Australia's finest and one that will age gracefully.

To buyClick here to grab a bottle of this Western Australian wonder drop.