2008 The Pawn 'Jeu de Fin' Reserve Release Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills
Is Sauvignon Blanc on the way out, or have newer experimental styles wowed us enough for people to dig it again? If you think it's becoming yesterday's wine it may surprise you to know it's still the single most popular white varietal in our restaurant. In June this year I visited Sancerre and spent some time in the beautiful village of Chavignol. At Gerard Boulay in Sancerre I tried some 2001 Sauvignon from his ' Clos de Beaujeu' vineyard, where they continue to produce Sauvignon Blanc with a twist. Boulay himself compares the terroir of this vineyard to that of the best sites in Chablis, where Chardonnay is king and limestone soils thrive. He is a man who uses natural ferments and no added sulphur. There was more opulence and more texture in this wine. Instead of the pungent greener notes that are often associated with Sauvignon Blanc (grassy and gooseberry notes) there was hints of orange blossom, with fresh fig and stewed apple. The acidity didn't tear your mouth apart and the finish was balanced and dry with solid length.
A local Australian producer also making a slightly left of centre Sauvignon Blanc style is The Pawn with their Adelaide Hills project. This is the work of the three Amigos: Tom Keelan, Rebecca Wilson and David Blows. The 2008 reserve release is partially barrel fermented and has improved from an extra year in the bottle. I like it because it's slightly richer and still has great energy with high tropical notes and a savoury, long finish. Overall this is a more complete package because it matches to a greater spectrum of flavours, and can also be more versatile across a whole meal.
Tasting notes: Tropical aromas (guava) and a zesty citric finish (fresh lime) with some more savoury elements at the end (broad beans and white flowers).
Would Go Well With : Seafood BBQ, fish and chips, mixed leaf salad with goats cheese.
Tell Your Guests: Sauvignon Blanc is the mother grape and Cabernet Franc the father grape of Cabernet Sauvignon (DNA tests in 1997 established this fact - the result of a spontaneous field crossing)
Cellaring Potential: Normally Sauvignon Blanc is a 'drink young' style (1-3 years) but this wine could cellar for 5 years.
Other options: If you like Sauvignon Blanc why not try other varieties that display similar characters in their youth such as Pinot Grigio, or try an Arneis white varietal from north west Italy.
To buy: The 2008 The Pawn 'Jeu de Fin' Reserve Release Sauvignon Blanc is available direct from the wineries website for $24 per bottle. Click here if you want to buy.
Thursday 21 July 2011
Monday 18 July 2011
An English Eatery and a (bottle of) Riesling
'The Fat Duck' Restaurant Berkshire, England
1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar, Germany.
1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar, Germany.
From the outside you could easily walk past and not know it was there. On the inside it's packed with presence, but in the most unobtrusive way. It's 'The Fat Duck Restaurant' in Berkshire, England which is one of only four restaurants in the UK to have 3 Michelin Stars and was named best restaurant in the world in 2005. Don't ask me how I got a reservation, but let's just say I was lucky.
I loved the theatre, the drama, the precision and the WOW factor that Chef Heston Blumenthal brings to the table. Each server had their own unique personality and made us feel comfortable. Was there a favourite dish or a wine match that stood out? For me it was the 'Roast Foie Gras with Barberry, Braised Kombu and Crab Biscuit' and it's interesting to see how they wine match there. With this it was a 1990 St.Urbans Hof 'Ockfener Bockstein' Auslese Riesling from Mosel, Germany. Honeysuckle notes with citrus, stone fruit and a bold palate, but not overtly sweet. More please!
You can't get this wine in Australia but something similar is the 1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar in Germany. In 2011 it's definitely hit its straps and has deep layers of rich nectarine fruits with white flowers and lanolin notes while the fresh acidity keeps everything in balance. It would also work extremely well with soft cheeses. I've given the details below.
Oh, and back at The Fat Duck Restaurant the dessert we had was called 'Like a Kid in Sweet Shop' which nicely sums up the whole experience of dining at one of the world's best.
1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar in Germany
Tasting Notes - Deep layers of rich nectarine fruits with white flowers and lanolin notes. Fresh acidity keeps everything in balance
Would go well with - Foie Gras, Soft cheeses such as Fromage D'affinois, Pork Belly
I loved the theatre, the drama, the precision and the WOW factor that Chef Heston Blumenthal brings to the table. Each server had their own unique personality and made us feel comfortable. Was there a favourite dish or a wine match that stood out? For me it was the 'Roast Foie Gras with Barberry, Braised Kombu and Crab Biscuit' and it's interesting to see how they wine match there. With this it was a 1990 St.Urbans Hof 'Ockfener Bockstein' Auslese Riesling from Mosel, Germany. Honeysuckle notes with citrus, stone fruit and a bold palate, but not overtly sweet. More please!
You can't get this wine in Australia but something similar is the 1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar in Germany. In 2011 it's definitely hit its straps and has deep layers of rich nectarine fruits with white flowers and lanolin notes while the fresh acidity keeps everything in balance. It would also work extremely well with soft cheeses. I've given the details below.
Oh, and back at The Fat Duck Restaurant the dessert we had was called 'Like a Kid in Sweet Shop' which nicely sums up the whole experience of dining at one of the world's best.
1993 Zilliken 'Saarburger Rausch' Auslese Riesling from the Saar in Germany
Tasting Notes - Deep layers of rich nectarine fruits with white flowers and lanolin notes. Fresh acidity keeps everything in balance
Would go well with - Foie Gras, Soft cheeses such as Fromage D'affinois, Pork Belly
Cellaring Potential - Riesling is a truly noble variety that ages gracefully whilst exhibiting variety definition, so when produced in a good year, it can last the distance - 20 to 30 years if cellared correctly
To buy - The price of the Reserve Release 1993 from Zilliken is about $115. Click here to buy
To buy - The price of the Reserve Release 1993 from Zilliken is about $115. Click here to buy
Wednesday 6 July 2011
Grower Producer Champagnes
NV Agrapart 'Blanc de Blancs' Grand Cru Champagne from Avize, France
In 2011 it looks as though it will be an early vintage in the Champagne region, in fact across most of Europe...about 3-4 weeks ahead of normal vintage time. Yields are also down on 2009 but quality is high.
On June 5th I visited Pascal Agrapart in the village of Avize, France and tried some seriously impressive champagnes. The vineyards are managed bio-dynamically and fruit is picked on ripeness - in the burgundian way. If you haven't had the chance to try Grower Producer champagnes – small production, small parcels of fruit and a hands-on approach - then it's time to begin. There’s just an extra ‘wow-factor’ from good Grower Producer Champagnes, wines that speak of their origin.. And at an attractive price-point.
Tried several champagnes matched with Comte cheese, local lentils and charcuterie. If you like a dry, crisp champagne, the stand-out for me was the NV Agrapart 'Terroirs' Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru for it's freshness, its spiny and stoney characters and its sourdough notes.
Shipments into Australia have just arrived, and this champagne is ready to drink now or cellar for 3-5 years. The price per bottle is around $85.
To buy NV Agrapart 'terroirs' blanc de blancs Grand Cru online, click here.
In 2011 it looks as though it will be an early vintage in the Champagne region, in fact across most of Europe...about 3-4 weeks ahead of normal vintage time. Yields are also down on 2009 but quality is high.
On June 5th I visited Pascal Agrapart in the village of Avize, France and tried some seriously impressive champagnes. The vineyards are managed bio-dynamically and fruit is picked on ripeness - in the burgundian way. If you haven't had the chance to try Grower Producer champagnes – small production, small parcels of fruit and a hands-on approach - then it's time to begin. There’s just an extra ‘wow-factor’ from good Grower Producer Champagnes, wines that speak of their origin.. And at an attractive price-point.
Tried several champagnes matched with Comte cheese, local lentils and charcuterie. If you like a dry, crisp champagne, the stand-out for me was the NV Agrapart 'Terroirs' Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru for it's freshness, its spiny and stoney characters and its sourdough notes.
Shipments into Australia have just arrived, and this champagne is ready to drink now or cellar for 3-5 years. The price per bottle is around $85.
To buy NV Agrapart 'terroirs' blanc de blancs Grand Cru online, click here.
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