My Best find for 2012 - High Altitude Sparkling

                                                                                                                                                                                                         

2008 Courabyra '805' Sparkling, Tumbarumba NSW ($45)

Are you a thrill seeker? Like things from a high altitude? From colour to aroma, to flavour and the story... this sparkling wine has it all! It ticks all the boxes and we've had a wonderful response to it being poured by the glass at ARIA Sydney.  It has been refreshing to find a wine with solid consistency and vibrancy of fruit.

It all started in April this year when I visited Eden Road winery in Murrumbateman for a Tumbarumba Workshop and International benchmark tasting.  Amongst other great wines that day, I tried the 2001 Courabyra '805' Sparkling from Tumbarumba.  I fell in love with this wine.   A few months later I tried the 2008 and haven't looked back since.  I've written about wines tasting better when consumed in their own territory.  Courabyra sparkling wines taste great at their origin but they also taste delicious when consumed from far away.

Courabyra means 'pleasant place, family gathering' in Aboriginal.  It is a sub-region that sits about 6km north of Tumbarumba, and is located 730 metres above sea level in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains, near Australia's highest peak Mount Kosciuszko.  Wines from this sub-region typically produce styles that are high in natural acidity and minerality.  The other sub-region of Tumbarumba is Maragle which is south and lower altitude, producing more textural wines with upfront fruit character.

Courabyra wines is the project of Brian and Cathy Gairn who established the vineyard site in 1993. The logo has been designed around the family theme as Cathy is one of eleven children.  The circle in the middle of the logo represents one family member with ten siblings around the outside. The '805' refers to the vineyard address.

The 2008 is a blend of 62% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay and 8% pinot meunier.  The wine spent 3.5 years on lees and was disgorged in November 2011.  The sparkling base wine was put through malolactic fermentation.

Tasting notes: amazing light straw colour with aromas of pear skin, mineral and warm brioche.  Soft, creamy palate with citrus backbone and hints of red currants, gingerbread and figs. Dry finish.

Would go well with:  tuna sashimi & seaweed salad, BBQ snapper with mushroom risotto, gruyere or strong washed rind cows milk cheeses.

Tell your friends: Tumbarumba was named by the Wiradjuri people to mean 'Hollow Sounding Ground'.

Impress your friends:  serve this sparkling in a Riedel pinot noir glass if you are pairing it with a main course.  Being Pinot Noir dominant this will help bring out those red fruit flavours and will also soften the texture of the wine.  If you want to stick with a classy champagne flute then I'd recommend the brand Zalto from Austria (pictured below). They are mouth-blown, look amazing, plus they are lead oxide free which results in a lighter, more flexible glass. Best of all they are well priced. 



Zalto Champagne Flute

                       

To buy Courabyra:  Click here to get some bubbles for Christmas ($45 per bottle)! 

Hands down this is my best find for 2012 and without a doubt one of the finest producers of sparkling wine in Australia. Make your own mind up and try a bottle.

2011 Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley - A wine by Matt Dunne

My first release - food-friendly pinot noir from a trio of single vineyards 
 




2011 Drake 'Samson' Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley Victoria

It's always been a dream of mine to get involved with producing a wine and last year I was excited to be given the opportunity.  The concept of the brand 'Drake' is about enjoying interesting wine with great food. 'Drake' is a male duck, which is the ultimate food match with pinot noir, whilst the name 'Samson' refers to two guys with plenty of curly hair, and a bit of flair!  Drake 'Samson' Pinot  Noir is a collaboration between the Yarra Valley’s Mac Forbes and myself (us of the curly hair).  2011 was a wet and cold vintage – a struggle for many. The wines I have seen so far are all lighter coloured styles but deceptively full flavoured.  I like the vintage for its approachability and elegance. They are wines to drink now but make your own mind up about the vintage as there are some good wines out there.

If you would like to try a bottle or 2 of Drake Samson, I've put details of how to order at the bottom of this post.

  

Why pinot?  I love the wines of Burgundy so traditionally that would mean I have a soft spot for the king and queen varieties... Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  I also love Mac’s single vineyard wines as they speak of their origin in the Yarra Valley - a region I have always been a fan of.  Mac has a wealth of experience which also spans overseas where he makes wine in Austria every year. His attention to detail and respect of the fruit is shown strongly in his winemaking.  From my end I wanted to help create a wine to suit modern cuisine, something interesting to think and talk about but at the same time not being too serious. A wine to enjoy no matter what the season, but with a good story.



Foot stomping the Seville fruit

Drake Samson turns Mac’s normal individual vineyard philosophy on its head, blending from three vineyards to create a style perfect for modern Australian cuisine. Killara vineyard is located on the banks of the Yarra River in Seville. We tasted through rows of berries in the vineyard, the higher up the riper and fuller they tasted - overall 2011 fruit is  high in acidity with low sugars.  Killara in 'Seville' makes up 33.3% of this blend and this site is made up of hard duplex soil bringing perfume, freshness and red currant crunch. 16.7% of the blend comes from the 'Yarra Glen' vineyard which offers tannic profile and chalkiness and is an east facing vineyard with granite soil.  The third vineyard, 'Coldstream’, makes up most of the blend (50%) and is southwest facing, adding opulence and textural elements being a warmer site with greater sun exposure. Coldstream has grey loam soils overlaying clay and 13 year old vines.  The MV6 clone is in all three vineyards and this is the sole clone used for the Drake.

The wine was hand picked and the cold soak was at 7 degrees. It spent 10 days on skins and was fermented in small open fermenters.   Most of the fruit was destemmed, we used about 10% whole bunch. The purpose of using whole bunch is to trap perfume in the wine and to build some complexity. Primarily hand plunged and foot stomped before maturation in large French oak (Damy) with one quarter new. The wine was racked only once prior to bottling which was in March.

This year the 2012 vintage is looking really exciting and we are making a blend from two single vineyards - Coldstream and Seville.  Stay tuned for an update on how it's progressing, the wines are currently in barrel and have just finished malolactic fermentation.

Tasting notes for 2011:  Perfumed nose of sour cherries, cranberry and garden herbs and then a super light, nervy palate with spicy rhubarb, sweet raspberry and savoury tannin profile.  Light bodied, full flavoured with a long, firm and dry finish with tight acid structure. 

In the Mac Forbes Winery

Would go well with:  Warm duck salad with roasted beetroot, quinoa, green beans and pomegranate.  If you are into cheese I like this pinot with 'cloth aged' cheddar and quince paste. What is your favourite food match with pinot noir?

Tell your friends:  Pinot noir is one of the most versatile grape varieties on the planet.. serve it at room temperature or serve it slightly chilled to completely change its dimensions.

Quantity produced:  135 dozen

To order:  RRP  is $30 per bottle

1)   Order direct:  2 bottles for $60 | 6 bottles for $160 | 12 bottles for $280
       (All prices with free freight included)  
2)   Contact Nicholas Crampton at Fourth Wave Wine                 
       nicholas@fourthwavewine.com.au or Mobile: 0417 670 655

Thanks:  Big thanks to Mac Forbes, Nicholas Crampton, Tony Fikkers, Andrew Dunn, Aaron Woods & David Baxter for their efforts, patience and enthusiasm with this project.

Shot of the 2011 Fruit

A Cabernet that is devilishly good!

This week at ARIA I sold two magnums of 1999 Domaine A Cabernet to a large table in for dinner. We sell these magnums for $495 a bottle. The wine is looking fantastic and reminded me I must share my earlier adventures to Tassie in 2012.

In February I had the opportunity to visit the Coal River Valley in Tasmania and in particular one of my all time favourite vineyards, Domaine A/Stoney Vineyard. The humble Peter and Ruth Althaus have owned the vineyard since 1989 and it's located about half an hour's drive north of Hobart. It was just by chance that I scheduled my visit an hour after Jancis Robinson MW (Master of Wine), who was in Tasmania and the keynote speaker for the 8th 'International Cool Climate Symposium'.

If your a Bordeaux fan you will love these wines... the 2006 Stoney Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon by Domaine A is an affordable cabernet blend that hits the mark.. It's from vines planted in 1973 and is made up 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. From a restaurant's point of view this is brilliant as being current release it has a few years bottle age on it (many current release wines need time in the cellar), it is good value for money and ready to drink now.  It's stated that this wine is one that's meant for short to medium term cellaring. Fair enough, but I reckon it would go a bit longer as it has excellent natural acidity, which is a hallmark feature of all the Domaine A/Stoney Vineyard wines.  They have a unique refreshing character on the palate which sets them apart.

Tasting notes:  vibrant nose of cassis, blackcurrant, dark cherries and eucalyptus. The palate is medium to full-bodied with ripe blackcurrants and dark chocolate. There are grippy tannins and the finish is intense with slight earthy, gamey characters and some delicate spice elements (sage and dried oregano).

Would go well with:  BBQ lamb cutlets marinated with olive oil, rosemary, sea salt and lemon zest. Serve it with a salad of white and purple cabbage, figs, walnuts, lots of fresh mint, balsamic and shaved parmesan.

Tell your friends: The Coal River Valley in Tasmania lies on the same latitude as Tuscany in Italy. 

To buy: Click here to get your hands on a bottle of this tasty wine ($28 per bottle).

Stoney Vineyard used to produce a straight Zinfandel and how awesome it was to try the 1982 on this visit. Once again the acidity was still there and there was a delicate perfume with an interesting spicy, earthy red fruit base with leather and dried herbs on the back palate. Tassie reds can last the distance and this is a prime example of how well the Coal River Valley can tackle a late ripening variety such as Zinfandel.

Wine Myth Buster - Challenge Your Perceptions

What are your thoughts on the old saying of 'white wine with white meat' and 'red wine with red meat'?  Sure, there are some golden rules for food and wine matching and much can be said about that one combination you've had where everything worked in total unison and it took you to eternal bliss.

How do you feel about ordering wine before you order food? Will the kitchen be able to cope if they're a seafood restaurant and you want to drink blockbuster reds all night?  One restaurant in Paris that puts wine first is 'Il Vino d'Enrico Bernardo'. They create your dish once you order the wine!  Cool concept, very spontaneous and the creator is a trained chef who has also been crowned 'best sommelier in the world'. His name is Enrico Bernardo. Click here to check out his restaurant. 

Why not push the boundaries and challenge your perceptions when it comes to food and wine combinations?  You won't know until you try and that's half the fun! Here's some ideas to ponder:

• Oysters natural with shallots, vodka & finger lime dressing - infuse a bottle of Belvedere vodka with the zest of 2-3 finger limes for 2 days. Finger limes are currently in season - don't use the pith as it will pollute the citrus infusion and I'd recommend straining out the zest once you are happy with the flavour. Keep in fridge and serve 30ml chilled with this dish for a refreshing match to get the palate going. Click here to grab a bottle of this Polish delight! ($59)
• 'BBQ chicken with tabouli, creamed corn & roasted spuds' -  why not try a vintage beer? The 2011 Endeavour 'Reserve' Pale Ale is brewed just out of Sydney (Canyonleigh) and has the palate weight to pack a punch against this dish. There are three different types of hops used and the malty characters work a treat with the char of the chicken.  Click here to buy a case. ($69)
• 'Crispy barramundi with mashed peas & braised fennel' - try a succulent pinot noir from a cool climate region such as the Canberra District. Nick Spencer is making some great wines down that way and his 2009 Eden Road 'The Long Road' Pinot Noir is vibrant and real winner with stronger, earthy fish such as barramundi. Click here to purchase. ($26 per bottle)
• Veal schnitzel, cabbage salad & rosti - it's summer so why not venture down the Rosé path? A fresh, dry and more savoury style is recommended for this dish so I would suggest the biodynamic 2011 Krinklewood 'Francesca' Mourvèdre Rosé from the Hunter Valley. Click here to order some. ($25 per bottle)
• Chocolate pudding with hazelnuts  - aged Sake works a treat with dark chocolate - the 1999 Chōkyū ‘Noble Brew’ Sake from Wagayama prefecture in Japan ($69 per bottle) is sherry-like and has amazing rancio and sesame aromatics with hints of caramel and toffee on the palate.  If you've never tried aged sake then what are you waiting for?  If you haven’t got a sweet tooth then it also works well with mushroom consommé.  Click here to grab some.

A glass of wine should be something you can enjoy with or without food.  Take it as seriously as you like but why not try out something new with your friends at home? I'm keen to hear about your favourite combinations or any new discoveries you might find.

What to look for when ordering wine

So you're at a restaurant with some friends or business associates and want to choose a bottle of wine from the list.  Here's a few points to keep in mind:

• First and foremost, don't be afraid to ask for assistance from the sommelier/wine staff.  Most restaurants with globe trotting lists, such as ARIA, have dedicated wine staff who's job it is to know the wine list inside out and be able to make recommendations.  Where possible be specific with your requests so you can get the best advice - do you want to enter the unknown, do you want to match wines to your meal, or can you suggest a favourite producer so the sommelier can get a feel for what style you like? 
• If the restaurant has a website do some research on-line before you dine to get a heads up on prices and perhaps some bottles you might like to try.  Getting 'price-shock' when you look at the wine list on a date is never a good look!
• Give the wine list and your guests equal but separate attention.  Especially with extensive wine lists, it's too easy to drift in and out and give neither the list or your guests the attention they deserve. Take five minutes to focus in on what wine(s) you want, so you can give your guests your undivided attention for the rest of the evening.
• Wines by the glass are becoming increasingly popular and are a great way to try different styles without breaking the budget.  Plus, by-the-glass options have become much more versatile and savvy in recent times.  If you're unsure, ask for a taste - great places welcome this. I'm a big fan of venues who pour wines by the glass at the table, although many don't.
• Are you celebrating a birthday or anniversary? It's always fun and exciting to to try old wines from a specific vintage (year) that has special meaning.. it can take you back to a moment in time or that special place.  
• If it's an older wine, ask about its origin, where has it come from? When the wine bottle is presented to you at the table have a look at the neck of the bottle.  How far is the level of the wine from top of the bottle? The term used to describe the fill level of wine is known as the 'ullage'. Evaporation is a natural occurrence in wine over time and the lower the ullage level means there is more space for oxygen within the bottle. This can increase the ageing process and can cause a higher rate of spoilage, often a result of poor storage or a faulty cork. For wines up to 20 years old in a riesling or burgundy-shaped bottle, ideally the level should be in the neck (about 2-3cm from the very top of the bottle). For wines more than 20 years old in the same format bottle you would expect the fill level to be about 4cm from the top. For 30 plus years a 5cm level is not uncommon. For bordeaux-style bottles, the ullage is measured using a different level rating system. For example, a bottle with a 'base neck' fill (BN) indicates the fill is at the bottom of the neck which is an excellent level for any wine 10 years or over.  Always have a look at the cork once opened and depending on how old it is and the variety, get advice on whether to have it decanted. Timing is everything!
• Vintages vary so do your homework on the best years for a particular wine or ask your sommelier.  At the same time it's good for you to form your own opinion - if there is a larger group why not try the same wine from different vintages? It's a great opportunity (and talking point) to see how a wine varies from vintage to vintage.

Whatever the case or the occasion it's all about enjoyment.. at the end of the day wine is there as one of the elements to help enhance your dining experience, whether you're after a glass or a bottle :)

A great Champagne cocktail - for those not having a dry January!

Well Christmas and New Year's is done for another year, and as always it was extremely busy at ARIA Restaurant.  Around this time customers interest turns to Champagne - it's still a traditional way to celebrate good times and special occasions.


Here's a simple but classy Champagne cocktail I found myself making a lot of this last month.  For those of you who still have the energy to enjoy a tipple in January - try this out and you'll see why it's so popular.


It's an old school cocktail that's easy to prepare at home or when your out. It's the delicious 'Classic Champagne Cocktail', which was created in the early 1800s. Here's what you need to make it:


Ingredients:

• Dash Angostura Bitters
• 1 x sugar cube
• 100ml Champagne (or Sparkling Wine)
• 20ml Cognac (optional)
• Lemon twist garnish

Method:  

• Coat sugar cube with bitters and place in bottom of Champagne flute.  If your after a bit of an extra kick start then add 20ml Cognac into the glass. Top with Champagne or sparkling wine. Lemon twist to garnish.  
• The sugar cube and bitters offers a nice contrast as it dissolves in the bottom of the glass. The lemon citrus garnish is really important too.

For the festive period I've been drinking the NV Veuve Fourny 'Grande Réserve' Premier Cru Brut from Avize in Champagne.  It represents such good value and is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir.  It has an attractive complexity and creaminess (from the pinot) yet maintains a freshness with notes of green apple and citrus whilst it maintains pinpoint acidity.


Click here to get your hands on a bottle. ($59 per bottle)


Wishing you good cheer and all the best for 2012!