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Thursday 21 July 2011

Sauvignon Blanc with a twist

2008 The Pawn 'Jeu de Fin' Reserve Release Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills

Is Sauvignon Blanc on the way out, or have newer experimental styles wowed us enough for people to dig it again?  If you think it's becoming yesterday's wine it may surprise you to know it's still the single most popular white varietal in our restaurant.  In June this year I visited Sancerre and spent some time in the beautiful village of Chavignol.  At Gerard Boulay in Sancerre I tried some 2001 Sauvignon from his ' Clos de Beaujeu' vineyard, where they continue to produce Sauvignon Blanc with a twist. Boulay himself compares the terroir of this vineyard to that of the best sites in Chablis, where Chardonnay is king and limestone soils thrive. He is a man who uses natural ferments and no added sulphur.  There was more opulence and more texture in this wine. Instead of the pungent greener notes that are often associated with Sauvignon Blanc (grassy and gooseberry notes) there was hints of orange blossom, with fresh fig and stewed apple. The acidity didn't tear your mouth apart and the finish was balanced and dry with solid length.

A local Australian producer also making a slightly left of centre Sauvignon Blanc style is The Pawn with their Adelaide Hills project. This is the work of the three Amigos:  Tom Keelan, Rebecca Wilson and David Blows.  The 2008 reserve release is partially barrel fermented and has improved from an extra year in the bottle. I like it because it's slightly richer and still has great energy with high tropical notes and a savoury, long finish.  Overall this is a more complete package because it matches to a greater spectrum of flavours, and can also be more versatile across a whole meal.

Tasting notes: Tropical aromas (guava) and a zesty citric finish (fresh lime) with some more savoury elements at the end (broad beans and white flowers).

Would Go Well With :  Seafood BBQ, fish and chips, mixed leaf salad with goats cheese.

Tell Your Guests:   Sauvignon Blanc is the mother grape and Cabernet Franc the father grape of Cabernet Sauvignon (DNA tests in 1997 established this fact - the result of a spontaneous field crossing)

Cellaring Potential:  Normally Sauvignon Blanc is a 'drink young' style (1-3 years) but this wine could cellar for 5 years.

Other options:  If you like Sauvignon Blanc why not try other varieties that display similar characters in their youth such as Pinot Grigio, or try an Arneis white varietal from north west Italy.

To buy:  The 2008 The Pawn 'Jeu de Fin' Reserve Release Sauvignon Blanc is available direct from the wineries website for $24 per bottle.  Click here if you want to buy.

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