2009 Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner ($25 per bottle)
A lot of people ask me to recommend white wine varieties they can put in their cellar. The majority of cellars are stocked with reds, but people want to balance that out with white wines that will also improve with age.
The reality is that it's more challenging to keep most white wines and they don't often benefit from cellaring. So why do some white varieties improve with age when others don't? The variety planted, the rootstock and the clone itself are all important factors as they all have differing relative concentrations of the compounds - acids, alcohol and polyphenols - that influence ageing. Riesling, semillon and chardonnay are examples of white wines that can age gracefully if they are carefully cellared.
A quirky white that ages really well is Austria’s native white varietal, Grüner Veltliner, which is versatile with food and compelling in its own right. The grape has been around for centuries but was considered ‘jug’ wine until the 1980s. It's exact origin is unknown, but one of its parent grape varieties is Traminer.
The reality is that it's more challenging to keep most white wines and they don't often benefit from cellaring. So why do some white varieties improve with age when others don't? The variety planted, the rootstock and the clone itself are all important factors as they all have differing relative concentrations of the compounds - acids, alcohol and polyphenols - that influence ageing. Riesling, semillon and chardonnay are examples of white wines that can age gracefully if they are carefully cellared.
A quirky white that ages really well is Austria’s native white varietal, Grüner Veltliner, which is versatile with food and compelling in its own right. The grape has been around for centuries but was considered ‘jug’ wine until the 1980s. It's exact origin is unknown, but one of its parent grape varieties is Traminer.
On a trip to Austria last year for the 'Vie Vinum' festival I tried more stunning Grüner Veltliners than I thought possible and the 2009 vintage has produced some cracking wines. Compared to the more classic wines produced in 2010, I find the 2009's are drinking very well now.
‘Vie Vinum’ is a Springtime wine extravaganza held in Austria
When drunk young, Grüner Veltliner shares similar characteristics to Riesling: racy acidity, floral citrus notes, often some minerality and a dry, crisp finish.
Once it ages however it becomes more like chardonnay in terms of palate weight and texture, although the aromatics of Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay are vastly different. Older chardonnay has more neutral characters whereas the old Grüners I tried still had the trademark citrus characteristics (lime with grapefruit) alongside more peppery, spicy and exotic notes. This opens the door for a greater scope of food matches and in Austria it was matched with some brilliant home made breads, cured meats and of course Wiener Schnitzel that requires a bolder style of wine.
And the great thing about Grüner Veltliner is it's capable of lasting decades if stored correctly, so if you can get your hands on a bottle or two it'll send you on a wine journey that's well worth the effort. With both Australia and New Zealand wine makers getting in on the Grüner act, access to these wines will hopefully become easier, and if Aussie cult vineyard Lark Hill’s latest release, the 2011 Grüner Veltliner is anything to go by we should be seeing some pretty serious local examples in the future.
Once it ages however it becomes more like chardonnay in terms of palate weight and texture, although the aromatics of Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay are vastly different. Older chardonnay has more neutral characters whereas the old Grüners I tried still had the trademark citrus characteristics (lime with grapefruit) alongside more peppery, spicy and exotic notes. This opens the door for a greater scope of food matches and in Austria it was matched with some brilliant home made breads, cured meats and of course Wiener Schnitzel that requires a bolder style of wine.
And the great thing about Grüner Veltliner is it's capable of lasting decades if stored correctly, so if you can get your hands on a bottle or two it'll send you on a wine journey that's well worth the effort. With both Australia and New Zealand wine makers getting in on the Grüner act, access to these wines will hopefully become easier, and if Aussie cult vineyard Lark Hill’s latest release, the 2011 Grüner Veltliner is anything to go by we should be seeing some pretty serious local examples in the future.
In the meantime a young, vibrant wine to get your hands on now is the 2009 Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner from Austria which is a solid single vineyard wine which is a great value, entry-level example of the variety. It's good now but will benefit from time in the bottle. This is an old estate but has been reinvigorated of late, thanks to the dynamic duo of Horvath and Frischengruber. I rate them because even though they're one of the larger producers, they make consistent wines that are true to their variety.
2009 Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner
Tasting Notes: mountain herbs and white pepper on the nose, whilst on the palate there is classic freshly squeezed lime juice and grapefruit notes with some more exotic stone fruits as the wine warms up in the glass. Dry finish with chalky, wet stone notes, medium acidity and a slight touch of fruit sweetness.
Would go well with: classic Thai food - show me some spice (red or green curry). Also, vongole or the classic Schietzel is always a winner with some sweet potato mash. Washed rind cheese such as Pont l'Eveque from Normandy is also a great option.
Tell your guests: The Wachau is a world Heritage site in recognition of its architectural and agricultural history.
Cellaring potential: 5-25 years - try it now and then track how it changes over time.
To buy: The 2009 Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner is available for $25 per bottle. Click here if you want to buy a bottle or two.
p.s The oldest Grüner I've tasted is a 38 year old 1973 Schloss Gobelsburg ‘Renner’ Grüner Veltliner. If you can keep one in your cellar for that long without drinking it you're doing well!
2009 Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner
Tasting Notes: mountain herbs and white pepper on the nose, whilst on the palate there is classic freshly squeezed lime juice and grapefruit notes with some more exotic stone fruits as the wine warms up in the glass. Dry finish with chalky, wet stone notes, medium acidity and a slight touch of fruit sweetness.
Would go well with: classic Thai food - show me some spice (red or green curry). Also, vongole or the classic Schietzel is always a winner with some sweet potato mash. Washed rind cheese such as Pont l'Eveque from Normandy is also a great option.
Tell your guests: The Wachau is a world Heritage site in recognition of its architectural and agricultural history.
Cellaring potential: 5-25 years - try it now and then track how it changes over time.
To buy: The 2009 Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner is available for $25 per bottle. Click here if you want to buy a bottle or two.
p.s The oldest Grüner I've tasted is a 38 year old 1973 Schloss Gobelsburg ‘Renner’ Grüner Veltliner. If you can keep one in your cellar for that long without drinking it you're doing well!
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